So it’s been a while, but the most important thing you need to know is that I am currently in Lisbon on a Global Pinsky Fellowship in Poetry. I’ll also be here through the Disquiet Writing Festival in July. And because I have been lucky enough to have these opportunities, I am sharing some of my experiences here.
Driving into Lisbon from the airport had me in a state of befuddled nostalgia. The architecture looks SO MUCH like Panjim or just Goa in general. It was like experiencing something backwards (hooray EMPIRE!). I kept smelling Goan food all over the city, and I wasn’t sure if it was my sensory imagination playing tricks on me or not. I also realized that I am going to really need to learn some basic Portuguese. This is because people here seem to already think I speak and look Portuguese. I’d go into more first impressions, but first impressions are usually lacking so I’ll ponder on them for a bit … except I will say that in my travel delirium, Lisbon looks like a sleepy capital. The houses are either colorfully tiled or a variation pink, yellow, and blue pastel shades. They looks like clouds. Oh, and there is something that sounds slavic about the accents here. Ok, enough first impressions.
Today I did what any person would do who cannot get keys to their apartment right away after an overnight flight. And by “right away,” I mean I had 8 hours to kill after arriving in the city. So I walked the hills of Lisbon, tried the famous “pastel de nata” (egg tart), slept in a neighborhood park for an hour, struggled my way through a menu (ended up with delicious chicken lemon orzo mint soup), saw the beautiful tiled houses with their rusted wrought iron and sticky moss balconies, witnessed a surprising amount of condemned buildings boarded up in all sorts of imaginative ways, saw the golden gate bridge “twin” (photo below), saw the eiffel tower twin (which is nothing like the original), walked along the river, got a bus pass, took happy note of the abundant bookstores in Lisbon, strolled a few churches and “piazzas” and fountains, of course.
I’ve been to a lot of churches, cathedrals, terrifying edifices of different religious eras, but the one I went to today was really extraordinary and the photo below does no justice at all. It’s called the São Roque Church situated in the Bairro Alto area of Lisbon. First of all… goldsmithing… is a thing. I am sure of it now. I don’t know why I thought someone had made it up. The experience of the church’s interior is what it must be like being locked inside a jewelery box: dark, ornamental, kind of dazzling and unnerving. And like maybe somebody overdid it a bit… but to be fair, it was kind of an extraordinary feat. All the pieces were commissioned by the Portuguese king in the 16th century, but were actually made in Rome, exported to Lisbon and assembled on site (these are HUGE, detailed pieces). Anyways, the church has an unbelievable organ concert series, the next one on May 26th, I will surely be attending.
Sleep for now.















